Do Mese y menudo (Two months and change)
3. November 2008 by Mark Wilkerson.
Two months into this wonderful adventure and life is great.
Culture Shock: Work
Since the last entry, I started working for the Home Improvement Department of Esperanza International. It is a new department that consists of my boss Pablo and me. We make quite the international team as Pablo is from the Patagonia region of Argentina. In addition to the international flair, it’s exciting to be involved in new endeavor for Esperanza.
For more information, please visit the Home Improvement Website and the update section named Homes of Hope. I am in charge of the website, and created the marketing material. Please provide feedback since the review board so far consists of one wonderful lady in Bellevue.
Here is a quick breakdown of the H.D.I.
1. Pablo and I launched the Department in Esperanza’s San Pedro Macoris office. S.P.M. is called the “Cradle of Shortstops”, because it’s deep history of producing MLB players. The city is about 35-45 minutes from Santo Domingo, and possesses one of Esperanza’s largest client bases of almost 2000. Is there a correlation between poverty and baseball in the D.R? I think so, but I root for Mariners so what do I know about baseball! As for poverty, I am learning it’s a complex situation.
2. We commute around three times per week. The drive along the southern coast consists of unbelievable views of Caribbean Sea, two shots of espresso at our favorite gas station, and lots of loud salsa music. Every trip I remember how much I love the Caribbean!
3. Once we arrive to the S.P.M. office, we pick up an Esperanza loan officer and travel to meet their clients who need a home renovation. The loan officer briefs us on the clients’ location, loan status, type of business, family situation, and desired renovation. All this is done in Spanish, so I arrive with about the same amount of knowledge it took to approve a 30-year subprime home loan in States in 2003.
4. We then meet with the client to discuss their desired home improvement and current loan situation. Pablo provides the construction advice, and I take pictures of the house and family.
5. The next step depends on the renovation, size of loan, and loan assessors experience with our team. The goal is to empower our clients to manage the construction process and hire local laborers. Usually, we just get the loan approved and buy the supplies at the local Home Depot for delivery. If it’s a small renovation, Pablo and I just inspect the work after completion. However, with larger projects or if we have American volunteers Pablo and I join the construction team. As of today, we’ve built two cement floors and completely remodeled a Colmado (mini-market). It’s exhausting work, but amazingly satisfying.
Overall, eight projects completed and financed through the Home Improvement Department. We are expecting a large budget increase for November and December!
Culture Shock: Batey Ulloa
A Batey is a term to describe a settlement of sugar cane laborers. The towns are located amongst fields and consist mostly of Haitians. The poverty and living conditions are shocking and disturbing, and my words cannot do it justice. However, the people inspire me with their resiliency and determination to provide a better life for their children.
My personal experience is mostly from Batey Ulloa, which consists of around 45 families a half-hour outside of S.P.M. This is the only population fact that the loan officer could provide, and I doubt anyone knows as kids dramatically outnumber adults. Ulloa represents the crippling poverty in the D.R. and how Esperanza’s work improves lives.
Here is Ulloa in a nutshell. The majority of the inhabitants are of Haitian descent, therefore denied most basic governmental services. During the sugar harvest, all the men work fields earning less than $2 per day. After the harvest, most men travel daily to S.P.M. for any low paying manual labor job available. As the supply of labor increases demand and wages decrease, which is a basic economic principle probably not discussed in the Presidential debates. This inability to generate a consistent and adequate income forces the women of Ulloa to work usually as maids in S.P.M, which leaves the children with family members or unattended. Now, I understand this situation is not unique to Ulloa or the Dominican Republic and people around the world face difficult choices to provide for their children.
However, how Esperanza (microfinance) improves the situation applies specifically to third-world poverty. First, 87% of the business loans are given to women. The women then start their own business, which allows them earn income and work in the community. Micro-finance statistics prove women are more credit-worthy than men in the third world. Second, Esperanza provides education, vocational training, and healthcare services dramatically improving the quality of life for the loan recipient and their families. Third, as the local economy starts to grow new employment opportunities besides manual labor arise increasing wage rates. However, I believe the greatest beneficiaries from microfinance are the children. With Esperanza’s services, children now receive parenting, education, and healthcare. It is these children that we hope will truly break the cycle of poverty.
Why does Esperanza (microfinance) works in the third-world and specifically well in the Dominican Republic? First, only a small amount of capital ($150) is required to start a business. Second, a small increase in daily income dramatically changes a family’s life. Imagine living off $2 dollars per day and now having $3. Third, microfinance is a labor intensive process requiring lots of internal staffing, which might be to expensive in the U.S. Fourth, an organization must provide services beyond microcredit to really improve people’s lives. Fifth, people must have an incentive to work and improve their own situation. Welfare systems and reliance on organizational handouts are an unsustainable part of the cycle of poverty. Most of our clients are denied basic governmental aid, which is not good. But, it might result in their determination and work ethic to improve their situation. It’s amazing process, and I am looking forward to learning more.
Culture Shock: Public Transportation
As the controversial Proposition 1 faces Seattle voters tomorrow, I want to purpose Proposition Santo Domingo for our traffic problems. The organized chaos of the Santo Domingo public transportation system is exactly what Seattle needs for our traffic problems! The system comprises of Carro Publicos, Guaguas, Motoconchos, Omsas, and Taxis. The first step to adopting chaos is accepting you have lost control. It seems the Dominican government accepted this loss of control, and basically privatized the transportation system to allow anyone with a vehicle to transport people for a fee.
Carro Publicos: These are cars that register a route and drive one street repeatedly from the start to the end. The cars are so old they barely move, but during the morning commute squeeze two people in the front seat and four in the back. Fortunately, they are very easy to hail and extremely cheap. However, during rush hour the official route registration process is thrown out the window and anyone driving can morph into people mover. For an example, imagine someone getting off work then driving around the Microsoft campus yelling “Freemont, Freemont, Freemont” and a bunch of techies jump into the car to carpool over the 520 bridge. It’s the ultimate carpool organized on the spot!
Guaguas: These illustrious Dominican mini-buses cause havoc on the roads, but move people cheaper and faster than metro buses. The requirements are high to get into this business.
1. Own a minibus. Where do get a minibus the size of an airport shuttle on Island?
2. Hire someone crazy enough to hang out the door and yell where the ride is heading while making sure each passenger pays.
3. Possess a very loud sound system to make sure everyone packed on your bus is as uncomfortable as possible.
Seattle needs these at least on Sundays for Seahawks home games!
Motoconchos: These are the Green solution, and will be how Seattleites demonstrate their concern with environment. Are you willing to risk your life for the environment? If so motoconchos are your solution as they are taxi mopeds. How they work: you jump on the back of moped, tell the driver where you need to go, and he weaves through traffic to your destination for a small fee. Now these mopeds about a 100 miles per gallon, which is slightly higher than a hybrid. The barriers to entry are extremely low as mopeds are cheap and require no sound system. If anything these motoconchos might help the Seattle Police fight eco-terrorists through elimination.
Omsas: Nothing truly unique about these Dominican metro buses, but Seattleites need to adopt the Dominican concept of full. Full here is significantly beyond maximum capacity with people still determined to get on the bus. Does Seattle need more buses or should we just pack the ones we have?
Taxis: Another form of transportation that is not extremely special in the Dominican Republic. However, Santo Domingo possesses more taxis and taxi companies than Seattle. It’s extremely easy and fast to get a taxi in the city. Seattle is a major city somehow taxi companies need to improve capacity.
Now your vote may be cast by the time you read this, but I’m going to send this to Tim Eyman so expect it on the November 2010 ballot.
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One Month
29. September 2008 by Mark Wilkerson.
Culture Shock: Shotguns
Every security guard in the D.R. protects his turf with a Shotgun. The type of store that requires security guards range from a bank (multiple shotguns) to a pharmacy. Therefore, on my walk to school I pass 5 to 10 Shotguns. Despite wanting to ask if their gun necessitates a gun rack I don’t like going to the bank.
Several years ago, I decided to stay away from guns after a scope took a piece of my eyebrow. The kick back got me! But, you should’ve seen the Coke can. Now, I am surrounded just trying exchange dollars for pesos. Talk about the next potential Financial Crisis.
Culture Shock: Hot Showers
A couple of weekends ago, a co-worker and I travelled to Cabarete. Cabarete is on the Northern Coast of the D.R., and world famous for wind surfing and kite boarding. We stayed at private condo owned by an Esperanza donor, and were living the good life: Caribbean beaches, warm blue water, perfect wind surfing, vacation nightlife, and Cuban cigars. However, the thing I miss the most is the hot water in the condo shower.
In Santo Domingo, the shower if working is bitterly cold, and it taunts me each morning as my alarm rings. Of course I fight back with my only weapon, the SNOOZE button! However, recently the shower is SILENT. No, I didn’t DEFEAT it with my SNOOZE button. It just doesn’t work. The Santo Domingo Water Company simply turns off the supply during rain storms to avoid bursting pipes. So, I shower with bucket of cold water and pitcher to disperse small amounts. I miss Cabarete every morning!
Culture Shock: Santiago
Santiago is the second largest city in the Dominican Republic. But, it is also the Spanish name of my new Korean Roommate. That’s right, in addition to mi familia Dominicano, Santiago moved in to turn our Christmas card into a college marketing brochure. But, seriously the diversity is working out great. Santiago and I now share the brunt of language lessons from mi Madre. He also speaks perfect English, and is a web developer for a UN Disaster Relief program. Therefore, he is a computer genius and owns a hard drive full of American movies and television series with 27 inch flat-screen monitor. Naturally, I convinced him to first watch HBO’s Band of Brothers, one of my favorite series of all time. We finished the series, and moved on to a slightly different genre Season 1 of Grey’s Anatomy. No comments please.
Grey’s Anatomy reminds me of Seattle with every introduction (The show is set in a Seattle Hospital). I miss home and hope everyone is doing well despite the Huskies and Financial Crisis. Tomorrow is my first field experience with Esperanza, and I am excited to be finally working. I still cannot speak Spanish.
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9-14-08 Blog Entry #1
16. September 2008 by Mark Wilkerson.
Zafa! I am two weeks into this great adventure, and experiencing culture shock every day. Life in Santo Domingo is slightly different than life in Green Lake! Nevertheless, it’s time to share some of the priceless moments from living in another country!
First, Zafa is an ancient Dominican expression to ward off a fukú, which is an evil spirit or curse. For more information I recommend reading The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Waoby Junot Diaz. Either way it provides an explanation of how problems are handled down in the Caribbean.
Culture shock “severe rain”. Since my arrival, tropical storms have pounded the island of Hispaniola. I arrived right after Hurricane Gustav, but just in time for tropical storm Hannah and Hurricane Ike. Now Hispaniola fortunately avoided a direct hit, but both storms brought unbelievable amounts of rain that caused severe flooding in the northern regions of Haiti and the D.R. I grew up in Seattle, I know rain, but not “severe rain”. For example, I walked to language school in the morning and couldn’t walk home at the end day. Several blocks were flooded in a matter of hours, because the drainage systems completely back up due to the massive amount rain and garbage in the streets. I don’t know what was more shocking the amount of rain or that garbage in the streets is almost forcing this disaster. How about picking up the trash, so “severe rain” doesn’t flood the streets? Either way nothing is going happen, because Hurricanes and the problems they bring are just part of life down here. However, I classic American fashion I’m trying to check CNN.com every ten minutes freaking about Josefina (remember that one)
Culture Shock: I don’t speak Spanish! Presently, I am living with a Dominican mother and her 21 year old son as part of my language school. It is working out well, and the mother calls me her hijo (son). Now both are extremely nice and welcoming, but the son is never around and acts like teenager. Therefore, his mother is the last person he wants to speak with, which makes me her international sound board. Now mi madre Dominicana knows I hardly speak Spanish, but she talks right through our cultural barrier knowing I have nowhere to go or nothing to do. I am powerless, because she controls the food. So, I listen intently, make facial expressions and always end the conversation with a “Poderia al bano?” (May I use the bathroom?). I now know why my Mom wanted an exchange student. They have to listen to anything and everything.
Culture Shock: Necesitas extraciones! On my first Saturday, I helped Esperazana host a Smiles for Life group. Smile for Lifeorganizes U.S. dentists and hygienists to provide free dental care and equipment to people around the world. It was an awesome day as 120 to 150 people received dental care for the first time in their life. Lacking dental and language skills, I was the bouncer at the door helping determine who went next. It was an interesting task since pain, age and need compose the criterion for care. Therefore, everyone in the barrio showed their messed up grill, which I followed with necesitas extraciones (you need extractions), and soon after the patient left with a mouth full of gauze and a lot less teeth! I felt like the neighborhood bully forcing kids to visit the dentist. Overall, it was an amazing day with great people and I was happy to contribute. It reminded I am here to experience, learn, work, but most importantly help.
Overall, I am happy and know the end of language school is approaching. I miss home and everyone in the States, but time goes fast even in the Caribbean. Please feel free to leave comments or questions on the blog or email me at mark@elchoquecultural.com. In the words of the last decent Husky receiver Sonny Shackelford, “You gotta keep on with keep on!”
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El Choque Cultural (Spanish for THE CULTURE SHOCK)
29. August 2008 by Mark Wilkerson.
Welcome to El Choque Cultural! This blog will focus on my experience working for a microfinance organization in the Dominican Republic.
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